Such is the stereotype, that Champagne is relegated to the role of the tipple that is used for toasting at these celebratory occasions, and is rarely taken seriously as a wine, to be matched with meals and savoured for it’s finesse and complexity…

Interestingly, the most commonplace occasions other than celebrations where Champagne is imbibed, seem to be at the Night Clubs, where they are used to slake the parched throats of the not so young, but, trendy party goers, gyrating endlessly on the dance floors.

Alternatively, Champagne is often poured at Cocktail Parties, where it is sipped, along with tasty morsels of finger food, canapés, and focused conversations.

Then, there are also the Hotel Sunday Brunches where many individuals are seen to be literally chugging away at the Champagne, like there wasn’t going to be a tomorrow…

The Champagnes that regularly appear at these “volume” outlets, tend to be from the larger producers, with the “Grand Marques” taking the largest cut in the pie that is the marketplace, due to their obviously larger available volumes, higher profiles due to much advertising, and their ability to muscle their way into the marketplace due to the strengths of their brands.

Due to the dominance of the “Grand Marques” in the marketplace and the marketing that enhances their desirability, these are the brands that people are most familiar with, and will ask for by name, something that is quite rare where regular wines are concerned.

Lower down in the pecking order of the Champagne market, there are specialist producers that produce Champagne on a much smaller scale, and sometimes, give the “Grand Marques” a run for their money, where quality is concerned.

These Champagnes very often only appear in smaller restaurants and specialist retailers, as they do not look for the same type of exposure, or sales volume as the Champagnes of the “Grand Marques”.

One such example is from the house of Champagne Marie Demets, a small producer from Guye-Sur-Seine, in the Southern part of the Champagne region, and, which used to supply grapes to Champagne Bollinger.

According to the available literature, Champagne Marie Demets was formed in 1987 when Marie Brement married Alain Demets.

Marie’s family have cultivated the land for many generations and Alain, who used to rent vines from the Brement family, took over the domaine on Marie’s father’s retirement.

This small grower produces all its Champagne from their own twelve hectares planted with mostly Pinot Noir.

I happened to encounter their Non Vintage Brut Tradition Champagne at a tasting, and I was so charmed by it, that I made an unprecedented purchase of a dozen bottles…

Champagne Marie Demets Brut Tradition NV

Made from 95% Pinot Noir, and 5% Chardonnay, from 100% Grand Cru vineyard sites, the Champagne Marie Demets Brut Tradition NV showed a vibrant medium gold colour, with a fine, persistent mousse.

On the nose, this Champagne displayed a distinctly creamy, and biscuity bouquet, with some hints of honey.

On the palate, it was dry, with pinot fruit that was rich, full flavoured, and fresh, with some yeast and biscuit notes, and, a light hint of nuttiness lingering in the finish.

This Champagne was beautifully balanced, with considerable elegance and finesse.  Furthermore, it was also absolutely delicious, and, eminently drinkable.

I have enjoyed this Champagne as an aperitif, and with simple pleasures like Cantonese Roast Pork (Siew Yoke), Deepfried Battered Whitebait, Deepfried Frogs Legs with Ginger Chips, Squid Tentacles with Salted Egg coating, and even Steamed White Pomfret Teochew-style.

From the case of 12 bottles, I now have just 3 bottles left, and I look forward to the day when the local importer here in Singapore (Lollapalooza Asia) brings in the highly acclaimed Marie Demets Brut Rosé NV.

Regular nama-sake, a.k.a. nama-zake, or hon-nama, is bottled and released without any pasteurisation.  These are usually released in spring or summer, and tend to be more vibrant, raw and edgy.

Draft (Nama) Saké made for the autumn release, is also called “nama-zume”, or more commonly, “Hiyaoroshi”.  These undergo a pasteurisation process, which takes place after the fermentation and pressing, and is “settled” for 6 months before being bottled and released without a second pasteurisation.

This practice supposedly gives the brew a harmonious autumn-like richness, and a taste that’s full, and round.

The practice of not pasteurising before bottling, also leaves Hiyaoroshi Saké vulnerable to deterioration, and thus, must be shipped, and sold refrigerated.

Here are 4 examples of the 2008 Aki-no-Hiyaoroshi or Autumn Released Draft Saké available in Singapore.

Aramasa Akitaryu "Hiyaoroshi" Junmai Ginjo Nama

Aramasa Akitaryu “Hiyaoroshi” Junmai Ginjo Nama

Origin: Akita Prefecture.
Grade: Junmai Ginjo
Seimaibuai: Not indicated.
SMV: Not indicated.
Acidity: Not indicated.
Alc: 15 – 16%
Bottled: 10/2008

Tasting Notes:

Pale straw in colour, with aromas of rice and “wet towel”, slowly developing into cherry blossoms, as it got air and a little warmer.

Quite dry, with flavours that are a little melon-like with apples and rice in the background. Rich, and with quite a bold freshness, with good palate weight and a very clean finish.

Excellent with fatty Roast Pork and even Cantonese Barbecued Pork Ribs.

Ichinokura "Autumn" Tokubetsu Junmai Nama

Ichinokura “Autumn” Tokubetsu Junmai Nama

Origin: Miyagi Prefecture.
Grade: Tokubetsu Junmai
Seimaibuai: Not indicated.
SMV: +1 ~ +2
Acidity: 1.5 – 1.7
Alc: 16 – 17%
Bottled: 09/2008

Tasting Notes:

Very pale, almost colourless. Quite fruity on the nose with melons and apples dominating, and rice quietly in the background.

Quite obviously fruity, yet dry at the same time, with melon and apples echoing the nose, as well as, some slightly spicy white pepper and shiso notes.  Rich and full-bodied, a really smooth texture, yet elegant, and finishes clean.

Quite interesting with a Goma-dressed Mizuna Salad.

Shirataki Jozen Mizunogotoshi "Autumn" Jumai Ginjo Nama

Shirataki Jozen Mizunogotoshi “Autumn” Junmai Ginjo Nama

Origin: Niigata Prefecture.
Grade: Junmai Ginjo
Seimaibuai: 60%
SMV: Not indicated.
Acidity: Not indicated.
Alc: 15 – 16%
Bottled: 08/2008

Tasting Notes:

Almost colourless, with melon notes on the nose, and perhaps a hint of peach in the background.

Very dry, with some of the same aromas echoing on the palate, especially melon, with some quiet rice notes in the background. Bold, fresh and quite rich and with a smooth texture, and,  a quick,  clean, and dry finish.

Excellent with Oden or Pork Yakiniku.

Urakasumi "Hiyaoroshi" Tokubetsu Junmai Nama

Urakasumi “Hiyaoroshi” Tokubetsu Junmai Nama

Origin: Miyagi Prefecture.
Grade: Tokubetsu Junmai.
Seimaibuai: 60%
SMV: +1 ~ +2
Acidity: 1.4
Alc: 16 – 17%
Bottled: 09/2008

Tasting Notes:

Aomas of nashi pears, rice, and hints of nutmeg and perhaps melon.

On the palate, it shows a very light hint of sweetness, and is quite richly flavoured, with rice dominating, and hints of caramel in the background. Full-bodied, deep and weighty, with a creamy and lush texture.  Well-balanced, and enjoyable.

Try with grilled oily fish or perhaps sushi featuring oily white fish like hamachi.

Other than the regular “brews” that appear on the shelves all year round, there are seasonal examples that appear only once a year for a limited period of time.

Seasonal Saké are released only 3 times a year, during Spring, Summer and Autumn, and most of them tend to be un-pasteurised (Draft/Nama), thus giving them a certain freshness, and fragility.  These Saké require refrigeration, otherwise, their fresh flavours will fade, and flatness develops.

In this post we look at 3 examples of the 2008 Natsu-no-Namazake or Summer Released Draft Sake available in Singapore.

Urakasumi Junmai Namazake

Urakasumi Junmai Namazake
– Miyagi Prefecture

Displaying exuberant aromas of white flowers, and ripe red apples.  Dry, with good freshness on the palate, with a medium body, and a very clean finish.

Drink nicely chilled, with Japanese Cherry Tomatoes, or Tsukemono Moriawase (assorted pickles).

Mineno Hakubai Syakubito Honjozo Namazake

Mineno Hakubai “Syakubito” Honjozo Namazake
– Niigata Prefecture

Layered nose of rice, white flowers and spicy shiso sprouts.
Dry, with white pepper notes on the mid-palate.  Fresh, yet round and rich with quite a full body, and some alcohol heat, with the same spicy white pepper echoing on the finish.

Drink chilled with a Baked Sockeye Salmon Fillet, or any other grilled oily fish with a strong flavour.

Ichinokura "Hyakkoi" Tokubetsu Junmai Namazake

Ichinokura “Hyakkoi” Tokubetsu Junmai Namazake
– Miyagi Prefecture

Light notes of melon and apples on the nose, with just a hint of rice.
Dry, with almost sweet fruit notes and a bold freshness.  Quite rich and full-bodied, a really smooth texture, and finishes with a clean, slightly fresh aftertaste.

Drink well chilled with a Braised Veal Osso Bucco, or a hearty Pork Belly Stew.